In which a few slices of salami accomplish what no committee ever could.
Sweden has many fine traditions. Midsummer, crayfish parties, Christmas smorgasbords and the almost sacred institution of fika.
For the uninitiated, fika is a coffee break, although describing it as such is rather like describing Christmas as an occasion when people exchange parcels. There is considerably more to it than that.
Fika is a social institution. It involves coffee, conversation and, more often than not, something sweet. Cinnamon buns, sponge cakes, pastries, biscuits. The sort of things that make life worth living, at least until your blood sugar remembers what you’ve done.
Now, I have absolutely nothing against cake. I am particularly fond of a good cinnamon bun, and I consider a properly made Danish pastry one of civilisation’s finer achievements.
But there is a time and a place for everything.
And four o’clock on a Thursday afternoon, when you haven’t eaten since lunch and still have a lengthy staff meeting ahead of you, is perhaps not the ideal moment to subsist on sponge cake.
The Thursday Ritual
At one workplace, we had a rather pleasant arrangement. Every Thursday afternoon, the staff gathered for fika before or during a meeting. Participation was entirely voluntary, and those who wished to join in took turns providing the refreshments.
A perfectly civilised idea.
People brought homemade buns, cakes and biscuits. Sometimes someone would pick up a Danish pastry selection from the supermarket. There was always plenty of generosity and goodwill involved.
There was also an extraordinary amount of sugar.
I soon developed the habit of bringing a sandwich to eat beforehand. By four o’clock I was generally ravenous, and while a slice of cake might be delightful with an afternoon cup of tea, it wasn’t going to sustain me through a meeting and the journey home.
Eventually, my turn came to provide the refreshments.
I had spent several weeks observing what everyone else brought, partly because I wanted to do my bit properly and partly because I was wondering what on earth I could contribute.
I am not a particularly enthusiastic cake baker. I can produce excellent cinnamon buns, but they are best eaten fresh, and I had no intention of getting up at four in the morning to bake several dozen of them.
Frankly, I couldn’t be arsed.
So I decided to do something different.
Enter the Salami
The day before my allotted Thursday, I visited the supermarket delicatessen counter.
Could I have 100 grams of this salami, please? And 100 grams of that one? Perhaps 200 grams of the ham. A nice mature cheese, something milder, a selection of fruit and a couple of good fresh loaves.
And would it be possible to arrange the meats and cheeses on serving platters rather than wrapping everything separately?
Certainly, they said.
Splendid.
I collected the lot during my lunch break the following day and arranged everything in the staffroom.
No baking. No icing. No frantic attempts to rescue a collapsed sponge cake.
Just bread, cheese, cold meats and fruit.
At four o’clock, my hungry colleagues descended.
And ate.
And ate.
There was something rather wonderful about watching a roomful of tired people discover that Thursday fika could actually constitute a small meal.
Someone asked how much it had all cost and expressed concern that I must have spent a fortune.
I told them.
In fact, the whole spread had cost considerably less than buying enough pastries for everyone, particularly if I’d also needed to buy myself something substantial to eat beforehand.
It was a revelation.
The Revolution Begins
The really interesting part came afterwards.
Nobody announced a new policy. There was no discussion about reforming the fika rota. No working group was established to investigate the nutritional shortcomings of the traditional Swedish coffee break.
Thank heavens.
People simply began bringing different things.
One week there were hot dogs. Another time, someone brought homemade bread. Someone else produced home-cured salmon.
There were still occasional sweet treats, of course. Nobody was suggesting that cake should be outlawed.
But suddenly, Thursday afternoons had become rather more enjoyable.
Instead of sitting through a meeting while our stomachs growled and we wondered how long it would be before we could get home and eat, we could relax, have something satisfying and enjoy one another’s company.
The fika had become what it was always supposed to be: a pleasant moment in the working day.
A Little Consideration Goes a Long Way
I’ve thought about that experience occasionally over the years, because it illustrates something rather important about hospitality.
We often become so accustomed to doing things a particular way that we forget to ask whether the arrangement actually suits the people involved.
Cake at fika is traditional, so cake is what we provide. Nobody means any harm by it. Quite the opposite. People go to considerable trouble to bake something lovely for their colleagues.
But hospitality isn’t really about following a tradition.
It’s about making people comfortable.
Sometimes that means a beautifully decorated cake. Sometimes it means a pot of tea and a biscuit. And sometimes it means recognising that a roomful of tired, hungry adults might appreciate a decent sandwich rather more than another slice of sponge.
It needn’t be expensive, elaborate or homemade. In fact, one of the nicest things about that particular Thursday was how little effort it required.
The delicatessen did the slicing. The bakery made the bread. I merely collected the food and put it on the table.
And everybody was happy.
I hadn’t set out to start a revolution.
I just wanted something to eat.




