Author: Domestic Daemon

  • The Great Coffee Break Revolution

    In which a few slices of salami accomplish what no committee ever could.

    Sweden has many fine traditions. Midsummer, crayfish parties, Christmas smorgasbords and the almost sacred institution of fika.

    For the uninitiated, fika is a coffee break, although describing it as such is rather like describing Christmas as an occasion when people exchange parcels. There is considerably more to it than that.

    Fika is a social institution. It involves coffee, conversation and, more often than not, something sweet. Cinnamon buns, sponge cakes, pastries, biscuits. The sort of things that make life worth living, at least until your blood sugar remembers what you’ve done.

    Now, I have absolutely nothing against cake. I am particularly fond of a good cinnamon bun, and I consider a properly made Danish pastry one of civilisation’s finer achievements.

    But there is a time and a place for everything.

    And four o’clock on a Thursday afternoon, when you haven’t eaten since lunch and still have a lengthy staff meeting ahead of you, is perhaps not the ideal moment to subsist on sponge cake.

    The Thursday Ritual

    At one workplace, we had a rather pleasant arrangement. Every Thursday afternoon, the staff gathered for fika before or during a meeting. Participation was entirely voluntary, and those who wished to join in took turns providing the refreshments.

    A perfectly civilised idea.

    People brought homemade buns, cakes and biscuits. Sometimes someone would pick up a Danish pastry selection from the supermarket. There was always plenty of generosity and goodwill involved.

    There was also an extraordinary amount of sugar.

    I soon developed the habit of bringing a sandwich to eat beforehand. By four o’clock I was generally ravenous, and while a slice of cake might be delightful with an afternoon cup of tea, it wasn’t going to sustain me through a meeting and the journey home.

    Eventually, my turn came to provide the refreshments.

    I had spent several weeks observing what everyone else brought, partly because I wanted to do my bit properly and partly because I was wondering what on earth I could contribute.

    I am not a particularly enthusiastic cake baker. I can produce excellent cinnamon buns, but they are best eaten fresh, and I had no intention of getting up at four in the morning to bake several dozen of them.

    Frankly, I couldn’t be arsed.

    So I decided to do something different.

    Enter the Salami

    The day before my allotted Thursday, I visited the supermarket delicatessen counter.

    Could I have 100 grams of this salami, please? And 100 grams of that one? Perhaps 200 grams of the ham. A nice mature cheese, something milder, a selection of fruit and a couple of good fresh loaves.

    And would it be possible to arrange the meats and cheeses on serving platters rather than wrapping everything separately?

    Certainly, they said.

    Splendid.

    I collected the lot during my lunch break the following day and arranged everything in the staffroom.

    No baking. No icing. No frantic attempts to rescue a collapsed sponge cake.

    Just bread, cheese, cold meats and fruit.

    At four o’clock, my hungry colleagues descended.

    And ate.

    And ate.

    There was something rather wonderful about watching a roomful of tired people discover that Thursday fika could actually constitute a small meal.

    Someone asked how much it had all cost and expressed concern that I must have spent a fortune.

    I told them.

    In fact, the whole spread had cost considerably less than buying enough pastries for everyone, particularly if I’d also needed to buy myself something substantial to eat beforehand.

    It was a revelation.

    The Revolution Begins

    The really interesting part came afterwards.

    Nobody announced a new policy. There was no discussion about reforming the fika rota. No working group was established to investigate the nutritional shortcomings of the traditional Swedish coffee break.

    Thank heavens.

    People simply began bringing different things.

    One week there were hot dogs. Another time, someone brought homemade bread. Someone else produced home-cured salmon.

    There were still occasional sweet treats, of course. Nobody was suggesting that cake should be outlawed.

    But suddenly, Thursday afternoons had become rather more enjoyable.

    Instead of sitting through a meeting while our stomachs growled and we wondered how long it would be before we could get home and eat, we could relax, have something satisfying and enjoy one another’s company.

    The fika had become what it was always supposed to be: a pleasant moment in the working day.

    A Little Consideration Goes a Long Way

    I’ve thought about that experience occasionally over the years, because it illustrates something rather important about hospitality.

    We often become so accustomed to doing things a particular way that we forget to ask whether the arrangement actually suits the people involved.

    Cake at fika is traditional, so cake is what we provide. Nobody means any harm by it. Quite the opposite. People go to considerable trouble to bake something lovely for their colleagues.

    But hospitality isn’t really about following a tradition.

    It’s about making people comfortable.

    Sometimes that means a beautifully decorated cake. Sometimes it means a pot of tea and a biscuit. And sometimes it means recognising that a roomful of tired, hungry adults might appreciate a decent sandwich rather more than another slice of sponge.

    It needn’t be expensive, elaborate or homemade. In fact, one of the nicest things about that particular Thursday was how little effort it required.

    The delicatessen did the slicing. The bakery made the bread. I merely collected the food and put it on the table.

    And everybody was happy.

    I hadn’t set out to start a revolution.

    I just wanted something to eat.

  • The Day the Smurfs Invaded My Dinner

    The Day the Smurfs Invaded My Dinner

    Or how a perfectly innocent pan of green beans turned into a chemistry experiment.

    I consider myself a reasonably competent cook. I’ve been feeding people for decades, and while there have been occasional disasters (the infamous Matjesill Ris-Otto springs to mind), most of what emerges from my kitchen is perfectly edible.

    Which is why I was rather taken aback when my garlic turned blue.

    Not slightly blue. Not a delicate shade of turquoise.

    SMURF BLUE.

    It all began with a perfectly ordinary pan of green beans.

    I like my green beans fairly simple. Boil them until they’re tender but still have a little bite, drain off the water, then add a generous drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, some crushed garlic and a sprinkling of flaky sea salt.

    Give everything a good toss in the saucepan and there you are. Delicious, uncomplicated, and requiring approximately as much culinary expertise as making a cup of tea.

    On this particular occasion, I’d made rather more than we needed for dinner, so I left the remaining beans in the stainless-steel saucepan to deal with later.

    An hour or so passed.

    I returned to the kitchen, lifted the lid and stared.

    There, nestled among my perfectly respectable green beans, were little pieces of garlic in a shade of blue normally associated with cartoon characters, children’s birthday cakes and particularly alarming cocktails.

    I blinked.

    The garlic remained blue.

    I poked it.

    Still blue.

    Now, I have seen some peculiar things happen to food over the years, but garlic spontaneously transforming into Smurf confetti was a new one.

    My first thought was that something had gone horribly wrong. Had the lemon reacted with the saucepan? Had I accidentally created some dreadful chemical compound? Was this how people discovered new poisons, by leaving their vegetables unattended?

    It turns out that the explanation is considerably less exciting.

    Garlic contains naturally occurring sulphur compounds which, under certain conditions, react with one another to produce blue or green pigments. Acidity can encourage the process, and my generous squeeze of lemon had apparently provided just the right conditions.

    The stainless-steel saucepan was innocent.

    The garlic wasn’t rotten.

    And the beans hadn’t been visited by a particularly vindictive Smurf.

    It was simply chemistry.

    Apparently, this colour change is perfectly harmless, which is reassuring, although I must admit that food resembling something scraped off the floor of a children’s art classroom doesn’t immediately inspire confidence.

    What fascinates me is that I’ve prepared green beans this way countless times, and the garlic has generally behaved itself.

    But on this occasion, for reasons best known to the garlic, it decided to put on a performance.

    I suppose I should be grateful. Some people spend a fortune on exotic ingredients and elaborate molecular gastronomy equipment to produce unusual colours on their dinner plates.

    I managed it with a clove of garlic, half a lemon and a saucepan.

    And I didn’t even have to try.

    The moral of the story?

    Never underestimate the entertainment value of an unattended vegetable.

    And if your garlic suddenly turns bright blue, don’t panic.

    You’ve probably just made Smurf à l’ail.

    Bon appétit, or as they say in Smurfland, Schtroumpf appétit!

  • Made with Love? Nonsense. Made with Onions

    Made with Love? Nonsense. Made with Onions

    In which I question the emotional requirements of a decent dinner.

    There is a phrase that appears with alarming regularity in cookbooks, food blogs and the more sentimental corners of the internet.

    Made with love.

    Apparently, this is the secret ingredient that transforms an ordinary meal into something extraordinary. It isn’t enough to chop an onion, boil a potato or roast a chicken. One must also pour one’s heart and soul into the proceedings.

    Personally, I think this is a load of old bollocks.

    I have cooked some absolutely splendid meals while feeling thoroughly bad-tempered. I have produced perfectly respectable dinners while tired, distracted or silently contemplating the various shortcomings of humanity. And I have certainly cooked things with the very best of intentions that turned out to be utterly revolting.

    My infamous Matjesill Ris-Otto springs to mind, although the less said about that particular crime against gastronomy, the better.

    Love, it seems, is no guarantee of culinary success.

    The Humble Onion

    Take dal, for instance.

    Dal is one of those wonderful dishes that costs next to nothing, requires very little effort and tastes as though you’ve been doing something terribly clever.

    You haven’t.

    You have been cooking lentils.

    My version begins with an onion, softened in butter. Not ghee, because I haven’t got any, and I’m certainly not going to drive miles in search of clarified butter when perfectly ordinary Swedish butter does the job.

    In goes some crushed garlic, fresh ginger and tomato purée. Let them fry for a moment. Add garam masala, cumin, coriander and a little turmeric. Give everything another stir.

    And if you can’t be arsed to rummage through the spice cupboard looking for garam masala, cumin, coriander and turmeric, just chuck in a spoonful of ordinary curry powder instead. It’ll do perfectly well.

    The lentils won’t know the difference, and I’m certainly not going to tell them.

    Then come the chopped tomatoes and a splash of vegetable stock.

    Let the whole lot bubble away for a few minutes before tipping in the red lentils.

    Now comes the difficult part.

    You wait.

    There is no need to stand over the saucepan whispering encouragement. No need to stir with maternal tenderness or contemplate the spiritual significance of a legume.

    Just let the bloody things cook.

    When the lentils have softened almost to mush, add some coconut cream, bring everything back to a simmer, and dinner is ready.

    That’s it.

    No love required. Just a cooker, a saucepan and the ability to recognise when a lentil is cooked.

    The Myth of the Devoted Cook

    I suspect the whole made with love business is a distant cousin of the equally irritating notion that a proper home-cooked meal must involve hours of devoted labour.

    Preferably performed by a woman wearing a spotless apron, smiling beatifically as she produces her third homemade pie of the afternoon.

    I have nothing against spending hours in the kitchen. Sometimes I thoroughly enjoy it.

    But there is no particular virtue in making dinner more complicated than it needs to be.

    A good stew doesn’t improve because you’ve gazed lovingly at it for three hours. It improves because you’ve chosen suitable ingredients, seasoned it properly and given it enough time to cook.

    And a badly seasoned stew won’t be rescued by your affection, however heartfelt.

    There is skill involved in cooking, certainly. Experience helps. So does curiosity, a little common sense and knowing when to leave well enough alone.

    But none of these things requires an emotional attachment to a saucepan.

    Tomorrow’s Dinner Is Already Better

    The other splendid thing about dal is that it generally tastes even better the following day.

    The spices settle in, the flavours deepen and the lentils absorb whatever liquid remains. A splash of water when reheating, perhaps another pinch of seasoning, and you’ve got a meal that has improved overnight without any further effort on your part.

    If only the same could be said of everything in life.

    And because lentils are cheap, you can make enough for several meals without feeling that you’ve committed a serious financial indiscretion.

    Compare that with the magnificent salmon I recently cooked in a sauce of butter, crème fraîche, dill and chives.

    It was absolutely delicious. My husband practically inhaled it.

    It was also so rich that eating it every day would probably require us to acquire a second sofa for the recovery period.

    Dal, on the other hand, can appear on the dinner table several times a week without anyone feeling that they need to be carried away afterwards.

    There is a great deal to be said for food that is both inexpensive and thoroughly satisfying.

    A Little Less Love, a Little More Sense

    None of this means that cooking for someone cannot be an act of love.

    Of course it can.

    There is affection in remembering that somebody likes extra gravy, dislikes coriander leaves or prefers their bacon crisp. There is kindness in making a favourite dinner after a miserable day.

    But that’s the reason for cooking, not the cooking method.

    The food itself doesn’t know whether you adore your family, resent the washing-up or would rather be sitting in the garden with a cup of tea.

    The onions will soften regardless.

    The lentils will cook.

    And provided you haven’t mistaken the sugar for the salt, dinner will probably turn out perfectly well.

    So by all means cook for the people you love. Feed them generously, make their favourites and enjoy the pleasure of seeing them eat.

    But don’t feel obliged to infuse every saucepan with your innermost emotions.

    Sometimes a good dinner is simply the result of knowing what to put in the pot.

    Made with love? Perhaps.

    Made with onions? Definitely.

  • The Worst Meal I Ever Cooked (And the Man Who Ate It)

    The Worst Meal I Ever Cooked (And the Man Who Ate It)

    In which a Swedish interpretation of Italian cuisine meets a hungry Scotsman, with consequences that would haunt him for years.

    My husband is not a fussy eater.

    This is a man who once bought a packet of sheep’s testicles, coated them in breadcrumbs, fried them and ate them. His only comment, delivered with admirable British understatement, was:

    “They’re a wee bit chewy.”

    So when I tell you that I once cooked something so unspeakably awful that he still remembers it years later, you may begin to appreciate the magnitude of my achievement.

    But first, a little culinary history.

    The Curious Case of Ris-Otto

    If you grew up in Sweden in the 1970s, you will remember risotto. Or rather, ris-Otto, pronounced with a hearty emphasis on the O, as though Otto were a distant relative who had come to stay.

    It bore approximately the same relationship to genuine Italian risotto as a frozen fish finger does to a freshly caught Dover sole.

    There was no Arborio rice. No patient stirring. No gradual addition of stock. And certainly no Parmesan.

    Swedish ris-Otto was essentially a sort of fried rice, although frying was entirely optional. You cooked some rice, rummaged through the fridge and added whatever happened to be lurking there. Meat, sausage, leftover vegetables, bits of ham. Anything was fair game.

    Almost invariably, the finished dish contained a generous helping of frozen peas, sweetcorn and diced red pepper. This particular combination was apparently compulsory in Swedish institutional catering throughout the decade.

    Every schoolchild knew ris-Otto. It was cheap, filling and an excellent way of disguising yesterday’s leftovers.

    And, as I was about to discover, it was possible to take the concept rather too far.

    The Last Tin in Britain

    Many years ago, when Long-Suffering Husband and I were preparing to move from England to Sweden, we found ourselves in a rather awkward financial predicament.

    LSH’s former partner had finally bought out his share of their house. We had given notice on the property we were renting, packed up our lives and were ready to leave as soon as the money arrived in the bank.

    Simple enough, you might think.

    Ah, but this was Britain.

    In Sweden, the contracts are signed, the money is transferred and everyone gets on with their lives.

    In Britain, apparently, the money first has to pass through the hands of a small goblin in a bank vault, who turns over a great many pieces of paper, scratches his head, makes a cup of tea and eventually decides whether the transaction may proceed.

    We waited.

    And waited.

    And waited some more.

    Meanwhile, our remaining money dwindled. We had no idea when the funds would finally be released, and buying groceries had become something of a luxury.

    Eventually, we reached the point where the kitchen cupboards were virtually bare.

    Our entire remaining food supply consisted of:

    • One onion
    • One stock cube
    • Approximately 200 grams of rice
    • One tin of Swedish pickled herring

    Not just any pickled herring, either. Matjesill, a sweet, spiced variety beloved by Swedes and regarded with considerable suspicion by much of the rest of the world.

    I surveyed our provisions.

    “I could make ris-Otto,” I announced.

    LSH had never heard of it, so I explained the basic principle: cook some rice and mix in whatever you’ve got.

    He seemed agreeable.

    I looked at the tin of herring.

    “I’m not entirely sure the matjesill would work, though.”

    “I don’t care,” said LSH. “I’m HUNGRY!”

    Well, that settled it.

    A Crime Against Two Nations

    I chopped the onion, cooked the rice with the stock cube and added the herring.

    And thus was born Matjesill Ris-Otto, a dish that managed to insult both Swedish and Italian culinary traditions in a single saucepan.

    I cannot remember precisely what it looked like, and frankly, I suspect my mind has mercifully suppressed the image.

    What I do remember is deciding that I wasn’t particularly hungry after all.

    LSH, however, was ravenous.

    He sat down and ate the lot.

    Every last grain.

    He said nothing.

    Not a word of complaint.

    I thought no more about it. The money eventually arrived, we moved to Sweden, and life went on.

    The Truth Will Out

    It was perhaps two years later that the subject of the infamous ris-Otto came up again.

    And LSH finally confessed.

    It was, he informed me, the most disgusting thing he had ever eaten in his life.

    Now, consider the significance of that statement.

    This is a man who has willingly eaten breaded sheep’s testicles and described them merely as “a wee bit chewy”.

    Yet a tin of matjesill, an onion and some rice had defeated him.

    Not only had he eaten the entire concoction, but he had then kept his opinion to himself for years.

    I can only assume that hunger, love and an extraordinary degree of British stoicism had combined to prevent him from telling me what he really thought.

    Either that, or he was afraid I might make it again.

    A Recipe Best Forgotten

    Over the years, I have cooked thousands of meals. Some have been triumphs. Others have been perfectly respectable. A few have been quietly forgotten.

    But only one has earned the distinction of being remembered as the worst meal of John’s life.

    I have never attempted to recreate Matjesill Ris-Otto.

    There are limits to culinary experimentation, even in Daemonia.

    And should we ever find ourselves down to our last onion, stock cube, handful of rice and tin of herring again, I think I shall simply eat the herring.

    Long-Suffering Husband can have the rice.

    Some marriages are built on shared interests, mutual respect and common values. Ours has also survived Matjesill Ris-Otto. I consider that quite an achievement.

  • The Reluctant Swedish Tradesman

    The Reluctant Swedish Tradesman

    Or: Why My Bathroom Sink Requires a Family Tree

    There are certain things one takes for granted in life.

    The sun rises in the east. Water runs downhill. Cats consider themselves the rightful owners of all upholstered furniture.

    And if you have a broken washbasin and sufficient money to pay someone to fix it, you can generally find a plumber willing to take the job.

    Or so I thought.

    Then I moved to rural Sweden.

    A Rather Sheltered Upbringing

    For most of my adult life, I lived in rented accommodation. If something broke, I telephoned the landlord, who arranged for somebody to come and fix it.

    Before that, I had my father and grandfather.

    Both were exceptionally competent men who could turn their hands to practically anything involving a house, a tool or a piece of machinery.

    My father, a plumbing engineer by profession, was particularly useful. There was very little he couldn’t explain, repair or construct, frequently with the sort of quiet competence that makes the rest of us look rather foolish.

    There was, however, one sacred exception.

    Electricity.

    My father regards domestic electrical installations with approximately the same degree of caution that other people reserve for unexploded ordnance.

    Not only must the work be carried out by a properly qualified professional, but there must also be an invoice, documentation and preferably enough certificates to wallpaper the downstairs loo.

    Cash in hand? Absolutely not.

    An electrician without the proper paperwork? Over his dead body.

    I have inherited a healthy respect for this particular rule.

    Consequently, while I am perfectly prepared to attack a leaking tap with a spanner and unreasonable optimism, I leave the wiring to people who can demonstrate that they know which end of a live cable is likely to kill them.

    The British Experience

    My husband, on the other hand, has owned property for longer than I have been renting it.

    And in Britain, where we lived for many years, finding a tradesman was generally a relatively straightforward affair.

    There were plenty of them. Their prices were usually reasonable. And, most remarkably, they appeared to regard being offered paid employment as a positive development.

    You rang a plumber.

    The plumber came.

    The plumber fixed the plumbing.

    You paid the plumber.

    A beautifully simple arrangement, really.

    Even in Stockholm, finding somebody willing to take your money was seldom a major problem.

    Then we moved to Ångermanland.

    And discovered that the laws of commerce operate rather differently north of the capital.

    The Seven-Hour Consultation

    Finding a tradesman in rural Ångermanland is not unlike panning for gold.

    You begin with optimism, proceed through several hours of increasingly desperate activity and eventually discover something that may or may not be valuable.

    First, you have to find someone who answers the telephone.

    This is an achievement in itself.

    Then you explain the job.

    “I’d like to have the washbasin replaced.”

    Silence.

    A thoughtful intake of breath.

    “Joooo…”

    More silence.

    You can almost hear the scratching of a chin.

    “Well, I suppose…”

    Another pause.

    “It’s a bit awkward, you see.”

    At this point, you begin to wonder whether replacing a washbasin requires planning permission, a geological survey and the approval of the Archbishop of Uppsala.

    Eventually, after approximately seven hours of contemplation, you receive an answer.

    He might possibly be able to do it.

    On a Sunday.

    In a month without an N in it.

    Provided nothing else comes up.

    You thank him profusely and wait.

    And wait.

    And wait.

    It’s Not What You Know

    Now, before anyone accuses me of being unfair to the local tradesmen, I should explain something.

    There simply aren’t very many of them.

    Rural Ångermanland has a strong tradition of people doing things for themselves. Youngsters grow up tinkering with cars, engines and machinery, partly because it is useful and partly because there isn’t always a tremendous amount else to do.

    A great many people are remarkably handy.

    And the professional tradesmen who remain are understandably busy.

    They have established customers. They have friends. They have family.

    And therein lies the problem.

    You see, in rural Sweden, the question is not necessarily whether a plumber is qualified to replace your washbasin.

    The question is whether his sister’s boyfriend once went fishing with your neighbour’s uncle.

    If the answer is yes, you may have a new washbasin by Thursday.

    If the answer is no, you may have one by Christmas.

    Although nobody is prepared to specify which Christmas.

    The plumber’s sister needs a new shower enclosure.

    His best friend’s neighbour wants a deck built.

    His brother-in-law’s cousin has discovered something unpleasant in the cellar.

    And naturally, all these jobs take precedence over a complete stranger.

    I understand this perfectly.

    If I were a tradesman with more work than I could comfortably manage, I would probably prioritise established customers and people I knew, too.

    Unfortunately, I am not an established customer.

    I am the woman who moved here from Stockholm.

    With the peculiar surname.

    Who apparently believes she can simply telephone a plumber and expect him to come and replace a washbasin.

    The sheer audacity.

    Who does she think she is?

    The Sacred Folder

    Over the years, I eventually managed to assemble a small but precious collection of reliable tradesmen.

    Most, rather tellingly, had moved here from further south.

    Their names and telephone numbers were carefully preserved in a folder, which I guarded with approximately the same devotion as the Crown Jewels.

    These were men who answered their telephones.

    Men who gave estimates.

    Men who occasionally even appeared on the day they had promised.

    I considered myself extraordinarily fortunate.

    Unfortunately, there was one minor flaw in my otherwise excellent system.

    My tradesmen were already getting on in years when I found them.

    And, with a complete disregard for my domestic requirements, they have since had the audacity to retire.

    One by one, the telephone numbers in my precious folder became useless.

    I contemplated writing to them and explaining that retirement was a thoroughly selfish undertaking, particularly when there were still taps to be repaired.

    But I suspected their wives might object.

    And so I found myself back where I started.

    A house requiring occasional attention, a husband who approaches instruction manuals with the reverence of a biblical scholar, and a dwindling supply of people prepared to wield a spanner in exchange for money.

    An Unexpected Arrival from Merseyside

    Then, rather unexpectedly, salvation appeared just down the hill.

    An English builder.

    From Merseyside, no less.

    A man who understands both the practical requirements of maintaining a house and the cultural significance of actually turning up when he says he will.

    Unfortunately, he is also a single father, which means his time is understandably limited.

    Children, I have discovered, are rather inconsiderate in this respect.

    They insist on being fed, clothed, collected and generally looked after, even when somebody else’s house desperately needs attention.

    Still, having a competent builder living nearby is a considerable comfort.

    And then something even more remarkable began to happen.

    A New Species Appears

    A new species of tradesman has begun establishing itself in the forests of Ångermanland.

    The Germans.

    Now, I realise that making sweeping generalisations about nationalities is a dangerous business.

    Nevertheless, the German tradesmen I have encountered possess three characteristics that make them extraordinarily attractive to a homeowner.

    They are competent.

    They are reasonably priced.

    And they appear genuinely interested in working.

    Most astonishingly of all, they do not seem particularly concerned about whether their sister’s boyfriend once went fishing with my neighbour’s cousin.

    You telephone.

    You explain the problem.

    They discuss the job.

    And then, in a development that still leaves me slightly breathless, they actually agree to do it.

    I have considered notifying the Swedish Museum of Natural History.

    Clearly, something significant is happening to the local ecosystem.

    Awaiting the Poles

    There is, however, one final development I am eagerly anticipating.

    The arrival of Polish builders.

    I have had excellent experiences with Polish craftsmen in the past. The ones I have encountered have been extraordinarily skilled, hardworking and conscientious.

    If a few of them were to establish themselves in the neighbourhood, I might finally be able to contemplate a future in which household repairs are accomplished before the next geological era.

    Perhaps I could even have the luxury of obtaining two quotations for the same job.

    Imagine that.

    Competition.

    Choice.

    A tradesman who actually wants the work.

    I might need to sit down.

    Of course, there is always the possibility that, after a few years in Ångermanland, they too will discover the attractions of prioritising their brother-in-law’s cousin’s neighbour.

    But until that happens, I shall remain optimistic.

    In the meantime, I still have my toolbox, my father’s advice and a fairly unreasonable belief in my own practical abilities.

    And if all else fails, there is always my husband.

    He may not have fixed the washbasin yet.

    But by God, he’ll have read the instructions.

  • From Damsel in Distress to Granny in Distress

    The Fine Art of Being a Helpless Little Old Lady

    There comes a time in every woman’s life when she discovers that being underestimated is not necessarily a disadvantage.

    In fact, with a little practice, it can become something of a superpower.

    I should know. I’ve been doing it all my life.

    The technique has evolved over the years, naturally. When I was young, I played the slightly dim girl who couldn’t possibly be expected to understand complicated things. These days, I play the sweet little old lady who regards modern technology with a mixture of bewilderment and mild alarm.

    Different costumes. Same performance.

    And gentlemen, I regret to inform you that you’ve been falling for it for generations.

    The Damsel in Distress

    The first version is remarkably simple.

    A young woman encounters a problem. A man appears. The young woman looks suitably helpless.

    “Oh, you’re so clever! I haven’t the faintest idea how these things work!”

    The man straightens his shoulders.

    At last! An opportunity to demonstrate his superior knowledge, his practical abilities and his general indispensability to civilisation.

    He explains. He demonstrates. He fixes.

    The young woman listens with wide-eyed admiration, occasionally asking a question designed to make him feel even more knowledgeable.

    “Goodness! How on earth did you know that?”

    And there you have it.

    A problem solved, a masculine ego beautifully polished, and everyone goes away feeling rather pleased with themselves.

    Now, before anyone starts sharpening their feminist pitchforks, I should point out that I have never believed women to be less capable than men.

    Quite the opposite.

    I simply discovered very early in life that allowing a man to believe himself cleverer than you can be an extraordinarily efficient way of getting things done.

    Why struggle with a recalcitrant piece of machinery when there’s a perfectly willing volunteer standing beside you, positively bursting with enthusiasm?

    It would be positively unkind to deprive him of the opportunity.

    From Damsel to Granny

    Of course, the damsel routine has a limited shelf life.

    There comes a point when fluttering one’s eyelashes at a young man becomes rather less effective. He may begin to wonder whether you have something in your eye.

    Fortunately, nature provides an excellent replacement.

    The Granny Strategy.

    The transition is wonderfully straightforward. Instead of appealing to a man’s desire to impress a pretty girl, you appeal to his affection and respect for his mother or grandmother.

    “Hello, dear. I’m terribly sorry to bother you, but my computer seems to have gone all peculiar.”

    There is usually a pause.

    A particular sort of pause.

    The pause of a young man who has just realised that the next forty minutes of his life may involve explaining what a browser is.

    “That’s all right, madam. Let’s see if we can help you.”

    Madam.

    Excellent. We are off to a splendid start.

    “Now, have you tried turning it off and on again?”

    “Oh, yes, dear! My husband suggested that. He’s terribly clever with these things.”

    This is technically true.

    My husband is an exceptionally intelligent man. Unfortunately, his approach to technology involves reading every available instruction manual before touching anything, by which time I have generally dismantled the offending equipment and put it back together again.

    But the young man doesn’t need to know that.

    Not yet.

    A Little Background Information

    There is, I suppose, something I ought to confess.

    I used to work in IT.

    Not the modern variety where somebody changes your password and tells you to clear your cache.

    Proper IT.

    I wrote code. I built websites. I investigated bugs. I worked on projects for companies whose names you would probably recognise.

    This was back when websites were constructed by people who actually understood what went into them, rather than by dragging colourful boxes around a screen and hoping for the best.

    My approach to debugging was somewhat unconventional.

    I would print out the offending code, tape the pages together, spread the resulting monstrosity across the office floor and crawl around on my hands and knees following the logic.

    My colleagues probably thought I was completely barking mad.

    But it worked.

    I mention this only because it makes my subsequent conversations with technical support departments considerably more entertaining.

    Establishing the Appropriate Level of Incompetence

    The secret is not to appear too stupid.

    That would be suspicious.

    One must instead cultivate the impression of a reasonably intelligent woman who has somehow wandered into the twenty-first century without adequate supervision.

    “Could you open your browser for me, madam?”

    “My browser? Oh, you mean the thing I use for looking at recipes?”

    “Yes, that’s right.”

    “Lovely. I’ve got that.”

    You can practically hear his confidence growing.

    He has this under control.

    He is being patient and professional.

    He is helping a sweet little old lady navigate the terrifying complexities of modern technology.

    Bless him.

    Meanwhile, I am quietly observing whether he understands the difference between a client-side problem, a server-side problem and a problem caused by somebody in development having made an almighty cock-up.

    I do not interrupt.

    I do not correct him.

    I certainly do not announce my former profession.

    That would spoil everything.

    The Moment of Revelation

    Eventually, we reach the interesting part.

    The young man has exhausted his approved troubleshooting script.

    We have restarted the machine. We have cleared the cache. We have checked the connection. We have performed the sacred ritual of unplugging everything and waiting thirty seconds.

    Nothing has worked.

    There is another pause.

    “Well, madam, I’m not quite sure what else we can try.”

    And this is where the fun begins.

    “Would it help, dear, if we looked at the error logs? Because I noticed that the application appears to be failing during authentication, and I wondered whether there might be a problem with the session handling rather than the connection itself.”

    Silence.

    Beautiful, exquisite silence.

    “Sorry, madam?”

    “Oh, it’s probably nothing. I used to do a little programming, you see.”

    A little programming.

    The verbal equivalent of a retired surgeon mentioning that she once did a spot of sewing.

    Suddenly, the conversation changes.

    The young man sits up a little straighter.

    The word madam quietly disappears.

    And, if I am particularly fortunate, he stops reading from his script.

    At last, we can have a proper conversation.

    The Psychology of It All

    The interesting thing is that neither version of the performance depends on making the man feel foolish.

    Quite the opposite.

    The young woman makes him feel clever, capable and protective.

    The older woman makes him feel kind, patient and respectful.

    Both appeal to something he would rather like to believe about himself.

    And both work particularly well when accompanied by impeccable manners.

    I never shout at technical support staff. I never insult them. I never tell them that I know more than they do, even when the evidence is becoming increasingly difficult to ignore.

    I thank them for their assistance.

    I compliment them when they get something right.

    And I allow them every opportunity to solve the problem before revealing that I might have one or two ideas of my own.

    If they know what they’re doing, splendid. We can dispense with the performance and have a perfectly sensible technical discussion.

    If they don’t, well…

    There is always the possibility of speaking to somebody who does.

    Politely, of course.

    One must maintain standards.

    Never Underestimate a Woman

    There is a peculiar assumption in the world of technology that competence belongs to the young.

    An elderly gentleman who mentions computers is quite likely to be treated as a retired engineer.

    An older woman is rather more likely to be asked whether she knows where the power button is.

    And a pretty young woman?

    Well, she probably just needs a nice clever man to explain everything to her.

    I have spent a lifetime watching these assumptions at work.

    And I have learned that there is very little point in arguing with them when one can put them to such excellent use.

    Age, after all, has its compensations.

    You may find yourself making involuntary noises when getting out of a chair. You may discover that the print on medicine bottles has become unreasonably small. You may occasionally walk into a room and forget what you went there for.

    But you also acquire a lifetime of knowledge, experience and the ability to recognise bullshit at twenty paces.

    And perhaps most importantly, you learn that there is no particular advantage in announcing everything you know.

    Sometimes it is far more satisfying to sit quietly, smile sweetly and allow people to discover it for themselves.

    So, to all the young men working in technical support, I offer one small piece of advice.

    The next time a little old lady rings up and tells you that her computer has gone all peculiar, do be kind.

    Do be patient.

    And whatever you do, don’t assume she doesn’t understand the technology.

    She may have been writing code before you were born.

    And she may have spent the last twenty minutes deciding whether you know what you’re talking about.

    Now then, dear. About that error log…

  • The Day My Husband Fried His Bollocks

    The Day My Husband Fried His Bollocks

    It seemed like a good idea at the time. To him, anyway.

    Before anyone calls an ambulance, I should perhaps clarify that the bollocks in question were not my husband’s own.

    They belonged to a ram.

    This is an important distinction, particularly as my husband is rather attached to his.

    Back in 2016 or 2017, our local Coop supermarket in Kramfors went through a rather interesting phase. A large number of refugees had settled in the area, and the supermarket had sensibly expanded its range to cater for customers whose culinary traditions extended somewhat beyond meatballs, falukorv and pickled herring.

    I rather liked it. There were all sorts of unfamiliar ingredients to investigate, and a trip to the supermarket became considerably more interesting.

    Unfortunately, my husband also likes investigating unfamiliar ingredients.

    Long-Suffering Husband is what might politely be described as an adventurous eater. Less politely, he is a human waste disposal unit. There is very little he won’t eat, and even less he won’t at least try.

    So when he discovered that Coop was selling sheep’s testicles, his reaction was apparently not the one most sensible people might have.

    Rather than quietly replacing the packet on the shelf and moving along to the pork chops, he decided they might make an interesting meal.

    Now, I should explain that I have a fairly firm policy regarding offal. I make an exception for Swedish black pudding, which is perfectly acceptable, largely because it comes in neat slices and bears no resemblance whatsoever to its origins.

    Everything else can remain firmly inside the animal, thank you very much.

    John, however, was undeterred.

    He decided to breadcrumb them and fry them.

    Because, apparently, when faced with an unfamiliar pair of reproductive organs, the obvious thing to do is to give them a crispy coating.

    I have no idea whether this is the traditional way of preparing ram’s testicles. I rather suspect he was making it up as he went along.

    I declined the opportunity to participate in the tasting.

    Not because I’m squeamish, you understand. I simply felt that some culinary experiences were best enjoyed by other people. Preferably at a considerable distance.

    And the verdict?

    Well, for a man who will cheerfully eat just about anything that doesn’t actively attempt to escape from his plate, John was remarkably unimpressed.

    They were, apparently, nothing to write home about.

    Which is rather unfortunate, because here I am, several years later, writing about them.

    We haven’t repeated the experiment.

    I suspect LSH considers it a valuable lesson in the dangers of culinary curiosity.

    Personally, I consider it a valuable lesson in the importance of knowing when to say no.

    And if nothing else, it has given me the immense satisfaction of being able to announce, quite truthfully, that my husband once fried his bollocks, and found the experience disappointing.

    Which isn’t something every wife can say.

  • Angèliqüé and the Fifty Shades of Customer Service

    Or: The Customer Is Always Right, Unless There’s a Form

    I am a terrible snob.

    Not the sort who insists on being addressed by her title, drinks champagne at breakfast or sends the soup back because the spoon is facing the wrong way. No, my particular form of snobbery is considerably less expensive. I make judgements about people based on their names.

    There. I’ve said it.

    I spent my formative years in a rather prosperous suburb of the capital, where certain people could tell which side of the railway tracks your grandparents lived on by the way you pronounced a vowel.

    I have since been transplanted to a small village in northern Sweden, where people are considerably less interested in one’s pedigree and rather more interested in whether one knows how to stack firewood.

    It has been a beneficial change of environment, although certain unfortunate habits have survived the move.

    Which brings me to Angèliqüé.

    That is not her real name, I hasten to add. I have changed it to protect an entirely innocent woman from my imagination.

    Angèliqüé works in customer service for a large electrical retailer. I have never met her. I have no idea how old she is, what she looks like or whether she spends her weekends rescuing abandoned kittens.

    For all I know, she is a delightful young woman who volunteers at an animal shelter, remembers her grandmother’s birthday and always returns her shopping trolley.

    Nevertheless, the moment I saw her name at the bottom of an email, an entire person materialised in my imagination.

    This is deeply unfair.

    It is also, I’m afraid, quite automatic.

    There was a time when a certain sort of mother, having read one too many historical romances, decided that her daughter simply could not be called Anna.

    Anna was what you called the girl next door. Anna wore sensible shoes, passed her mathematics exams and eventually became an accountant.

    Her daughter was destined for greater things.

    Her daughter would be Angélique.

    The novels about Angélique, that ravishing seventeenth-century heroine who spent a remarkable amount of time being desired, abducted, imperilled and generally inconvenienced by aristocrats, inspired a particular enthusiasm for names with a Continental flavour.

    And if Angélique was good, surely Angèliqüé was better?

    Why settle for an ordinary spelling when you could scatter accents across a name like hundreds and thousands on a birthday cake?

    The resulting child would spend the next eighty years spelling her name to receptionists, correcting official documents and explaining that the accent over the second vowel was absolutely essential, despite serving no discernible linguistic purpose.

    But her mother would be delighted.

    She had given birth not to an ordinary Swedish girl but to a heroine.

    Unfortunately, the heroine would still have to attend compulsory school, queue at the pharmacy and eventually find employment.

    Possibly in customer service.

    Which brings us back to my telephone.

    My telephone, a perfectly respectable smartphone which had until recently performed its duties without complaint, has suffered what I can only describe as a catastrophic nervous breakdown.

    It will not start. It will not respond to reason. It displays its manufacturer’s logo, grows alarmingly warm and refuses to proceed any further.

    In this respect, it bears a certain resemblance to my husband when confronted with flat-pack furniture.

    I contacted the retailer, explained the problem in some detail and pointed out that I was making a complaint under consumer protection legislation.

    Angèliqüé replied.

    She asked me to describe the problem.

    Again.

    She also wanted to know whether I had performed a factory reset, despite the fact that the telephone was about as responsive as a brick and considerably less useful, since a brick can at least be employed to prop open a door.

    There was a form.

    Of course there was a form.

    There is always a form.

    The form offered me a choice between declaring that I had already reset the telephone and authorising someone else to reset it, potentially at my expense.

    There was no box marked:

    The bloody thing won’t switch on.

    Nor was there one marked:

    I would prefer not to have all my data obliterated merely because your computer system cannot accommodate a third possibility.

    I wrote back, politely.

    I explained that the telephone was entirely unusable, that I was exercising my statutory rights and that I did not consent to chargeable work or the destruction of my data without prior agreement.

    Angèliqüé replied.

    She needed me to complete the form.

    At this point, I began to suspect that Angèliqüé and I were conducting two entirely separate conversations.

    I was discussing a defective telephone and consumer legislation.

    Angèliqüé was discussing a form.

    Somewhere in the depths of the company’s customer service department, I imagine there is a training manual containing the words:

    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES DEVIATE FROM THE SCRIPT.

    A customer might report that their washing machine has burst into flames, their television has swallowed the cat or their refrigerator is making threatening remarks in Norwegian.

    The correct response would presumably be:

    Thank you for contacting us. Have you tried restarting the device? Please complete the attached form.

    I should make it clear that I do not blame Angèliqüé for this.

    She almost certainly has targets to meet, procedures to follow and a supervisor who measures productivity in closed tickets rather than solved problems.

    She may well be perfectly capable of understanding my complaint but entirely unable to do anything useful about it.

    That is the particular genius of modern customer service. Companies employ human beings and then go to extraordinary lengths to prevent them from behaving like human beings.

    And I, who have spent much of my working life identifying problems and finding ways around them, find this almost physically painful.

    I want to reach through the screen, take Angèliqüé gently by the shoulders and say:

    “My dear girl, forget the form for thirty seconds. Read what I’ve actually written.”

    Instead, I make another cup of tea and compose another impeccably polite email.

    Because that is the other thing about being a snob.

    One must, at the very least, maintain one’s manners.

    It is perfectly possible to be furious with a company without being unpleasant to the unfortunate person employed to represent it. Indeed, I make a point of distinguishing between the two.

    Angèliqüé did not manufacture the telephone. She did not break it. She did not design the form.

    And, most importantly, she did not choose her own name.

    That last responsibility belongs entirely to her parents.

    Who, for all I know, may have been perfectly sensible people who simply liked the sound of it.

    But I shall reserve judgement until the telephone is repaired.

    In the meantime, somewhere in northern Sweden, a middle-aged woman with a questionable upbringing, an increasingly cold cup of Earl Grey and a completely dead smartphone is preparing her next email.

    And somewhere else, Angèliqüé is probably preparing to ask her to fill in the form.

    Again.

    It seemed like a good idea at the time.

  • The Tyranny of the Instruction Manual

    Or: Thirty Years of Marital Harmony, One Allen Key at a Time

    There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who read the instructions, and those who have finished assembling the furniture before the first lot have found their reading glasses.

    I married one of the former.

    My husband, John, is a highly educated man. He has an impressive academic background, an enquiring mind, and a profound respect for the written word. These are admirable qualities in almost every conceivable situation.

    Except when assembling a bookcase.

    To John, a flat-pack furniture delivery is not a domestic chore. It is a research project.

    First, the box must be opened carefully, preferably without damaging the packaging, which may conceivably be required at some unspecified future date. Every component must then be removed, identified, counted and arranged in precisely the order prescribed by the manufacturer.

    The screws are sorted. The dowels are inspected. The mysterious little metal things are studied with the concentration normally reserved for archaeological discoveries.

    Then comes the instruction manual.

    John reads it. All of it. Including the safety warnings, the manufacturer’s recommendations and, quite possibly, the Swedish recycling instructions.

    Should the manual mention a particular tool, that tool must be located. If the tool has its own instruction manual, naturally that must be consulted as well.

    At this point, I have generally finished building the bookcase.

    I am not entirely sure how. There may have been a high-heeled shoe involved, pressed into service as a hammer, and a kitchen knife standing in for a screwdriver. I have always maintained that a tool is simply an object that happens to be suitable for the task at hand.

    John disagrees.

    John believes that every task has a correct procedure, and that the correct procedure exists for a reason.

    I believe that if the shelves are horizontal and the whole contraption remains standing when you let go, the procedure was sufficiently correct.

    We have been married for a very long time.

    Our differences extend well beyond furniture.

    If something in the house breaks, John approaches the problem intellectually. He considers the possible causes, weighs the available evidence and formulates a hypothesis.

    I fetch a screwdriver.

    By the time he has established a theoretical framework for the malfunction, I have usually dismantled the offending appliance, discovered the problem and put it back together.

    Occasionally, I even have a screw left over.

    This does not trouble me nearly as much as it troubles John.

    “Where did that come from?” he asks.

    “I don’t know.”

    “Shouldn’t it be somewhere?”

    “Probably.”

    “Doesn’t that worry you?”

    “Is it working?”

    This is not, apparently, an acceptable answer.

    In fairness, John’s approach has certain advantages. He is considerably less likely than I am to discover halfway through a job that something important was supposed to be fitted before something else.

    I, on the other hand, am considerably more experienced at taking things apart again.

    One might imagine that after all these years we would have reached some sort of compromise. A sensible division of labour, perhaps, in which John reads the instructions while I do the actual work.

    And, in a manner of speaking, we have.

    He reads the instructions.

    I do the actual work.

    He then explains what I should have done differently.

    It is a system that has served us remarkably well, provided neither of us is particularly concerned about maintaining a peaceful atmosphere during the assembly of Swedish furniture.

    The curious thing is that neither of us is entirely wrong.

    John’s method is careful, considered and systematic. Mine is quick, practical and occasionally involves language that would make a dockworker blush.

    His produces an understanding of how things ought to work.

    Mine produces a functioning bookcase.

    And should the bookcase collapse six months later, he will remind me that the instructions specifically warned against using the wrong screws.

    He will be right, of course.

    Which is why I shall never tell him.

    After all, a successful marriage is built on mutual respect, tolerance and knowing precisely when to hide the leftover fittings.

  • May the Force of Persil Be With You!

    In which a Domestic Daemon discovers a miracle and immediately becomes insufferable

    Who would have thought?

    I am not a neat freak. Far from it. But even I was beginning to lose patience with the state of our kitchen.

    It was reasonably tidy. The floor was reasonably clean. But the wall and ceiling around the cooker looked as though we’d been conducting experimental warfare with cooking fat.

    I could already see every spare penny we might have over the coming year disappearing into redecorating the kitchen.

    To make matters worse, our kitchen cupboards have white, matt-painted doors. A charming choice, no doubt, provided one never actually uses the kitchen.

    Anything that splashes, drips or spills leaves a mark. And when does anything not splash, drip or spill in a kitchen?

    Now, as many of you know, I am no stranger to cleaning products.

    Indeed, I have probably purchased every detergent, spray, cream, powder and allegedly miraculous household preparation advertised on television since I was old enough to wield a dishcloth.

    Whenever a new product appears, promising to remove twenty years of accumulated grime with a single effortless wipe, I buy it.

    I try it.

    I am disappointed.

    I put it under the sink with the others.

    At this point, I had tried practically everything on those wretched cupboard doors, short of a blowtorch. I had scrubbed, rubbed, polished and applied enough elbow grease to lubricate a small industrial estate.

    The doors looked cleaner, certainly.

    But pristine?

    Not even close.

    Then, the other afternoon, while faithfully observing my usual television routine, I watched a pair of cleaning ladies tackle something particularly revolting in somebody else’s house.

    Their secret weapon?

    Ordinary laundry detergent dissolved in hot water.

    Laundry detergent!

    The stuff one puts in the washing machine!

    I regarded this revelation with considerable scepticism. After all, I had spent a small fortune on products specifically designed to clean kitchens. Surely a humble scoop of washing powder couldn’t succeed where an entire shelf of expensive chemical warfare had failed?

    Still, nothing ventured.

    I boiled some water, dissolved a little laundry detergent in it, donned my rubber gloves and approached the nearest cupboard door.

    One wipe.

    That was all it took.

    One. Single. Wipe.

    The dirt simply came off.

    No scrubbing. No rubbing. No swearing at the cupboard.

    I was gobsmacked.

    Naturally, I summoned the Long-Suffering Husband to witness this extraordinary event.

    “LOOK AT THIS!”

    He looked.

    I wiped another patch.

    “LOOK!”

    He looked again.

    I was so delighted that when he offered to help, I refused.

    Absolutely not.

    These were my cupboard doors, and I was going to clean every last one of them myself.

    Having restored the doors to something approaching their original splendour, I began eyeing the wall behind the cooker.

    Surely not.

    And the ceiling?

    Impossible.

    But curiosity got the better of me.

    I tried the wall.

    The grease came off.

    I tried the ceiling.

    That came clean too.

    By this point, I was practically hysterical with domestic triumph.

    Years of accumulated kitchen grime, defeated by something that had been sitting in the laundry cupboard all along.

    I felt like Archimedes discovering displacement, although considerably better dressed and with no immediate plans to run naked through the streets shouting Eureka!

    And now?

    Now I have a beautiful, clean kitchen.

    And nobody is allowed to use it.

    I guard it with the devotion of a Rottweiler protecting a particularly juicy bone.

    There will be no frying, roasting, boiling, simmering or other reckless culinary activity capable of disturbing its newly acquired perfection.

    The kitchen is no longer a place in which food is prepared.

    It is a monument to my achievement.

    Of course, this arrangement may become difficult when I get hungry.

    But that is a problem for the Long-Suffering Husband.

    He can put on his pinny and make me something to eat.

    Preferably without making a mess.

    And if he does?

    Well, at least I know what to clean it with.